Saturday, April 28, 2018

Modernist Bread Hardcover – November 7, 2017 by Nathan Myhrvold and, Francisco Migoya(The Cooking Lab (IBRCookBooks)

It arrived last night after over a year of waiting. It was packaged essentially the same as Modernist Cuisine was, with an outer brown cardboard box and recycled molded cardboard corner spacers around an inner box. The books and stainless steel case were in perfect condition. It's morethan fifty pounds of book (almost 54 in the packaging), so don't hurt yourself getting it inside!

So far I've only explored the first two volumes in any depth but I've really been impressed so far. Modernist Cuisine tried to be an all-inclusive reference to savory cooking in a modernist style, and that's an overwhelming breadth of topics. Even at 2,400 pages, there were many topics that were better covered as single subjects in other books. It was also their first book and there were some rough edges to be seen, though it was still a magnificent achievement.

Bread however succeeds in several ways that Cuisine didn't. It's essentialy 2,600 pages on a single subject and they can really dig into things in great depth. It doesn't hurt that the single subject is something that I love, so rather than having varying interest in the recipes in Cuisine, Bread is just a never ending wonderment of bready goodness.

Bread is also unburdened by the exotic equipment and ingredients that made most of Cuisine inaccessible to home cooks once you got past the Mac & Cheese. Almost everything in Bread looks like it should be accessible to any dedicated home cook, and with very little special equipment (no Roto-Vap, Ultra Centrifuge, or Anti-griddles in sight).



The information density seems higher than in Cuisine, and I'm really learning a lot. Even their history section in volume 1 is extensive and well researched and quite interesting. They have an even longer chapter on nutrition and diet this time, but it's similar to that from Cuisine and they debunk most fads and most "common wisdom" about diet and health.

There's a little bit of redundancy in the writing (they've already explained "Baker's Percentages" to me three times now), but overall I'm quite impressed with the quality as well as both breadth and depth of the writing. Again, significantly more than I am with Cuisine. Bread just feels much more polished.

The production quality, binding, and the illustrations are at least as good and probably better than Cuisine. The over 5,000 images are stunningly good and of the highest resolution. The volumes are oversize and just at the limit of something you can hold in your lap and read comfortably. In this respect the set is easily worth the price as an object of art to display and enjoy, even if you only ever admire it.

But unlike Cuisine, Bread really screams "you can make all these things!" and I'm already hungrily looking forward to getting into the kitchen (though I feel like i should read most of the first three volumes a couple times first lol).

I won't bore you with the detailed contents this time since you can find that on their web site, but I'll mention a couple things that have struck me so far. First, the Kitchen Manual is much larger and contains pretty much everything you need to take into the kitchen with you to attempt any of the recipes from the book. It's again printed on plastic or plasticized waterproof paper with a lay flat spiral binding.

The stainless steel case is nice and probably less subject to breakage than the acrylic case from Cuisine. It's thin, but seems fairly sturdy and is very well constructed without visible seams or welds between panels.

I'll be back to update this review once I've finished reading more of the how-to, and after I make some bread.

But after spending a year wondering if this was really going to be worth the price, I'm really happy that I bought it and I think you will be too.

No question about stars, it gets all of them.


Publisher's Description  
Modernist Bread: The Art and Science is a revolutionary new understanding of one of the most important staples of the human diet. Created by the team that published the award-winning Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, this massive treasury of practical knowledge and groundbreaking techniques captures over four years of independent research and collaborations with leading industry professionals; the result is the most in-depth look at bread to date. Stunning photography brings the complete story of bread to life across five volumes—uncover its incredible history, loaves from every corner of the world, and the breath-taking beauty of scientific phenomena at work above and below the crust. In addition, you will discover innovative recipes and techniques developed by the Modernist Cuisine team that have not been published anywhere else. Housed in a sleek stainless steel case, this five-volume set contains more than 1,500 traditional and avant-garde recipes, as well as a wire-bound kitchen manual so that you can easily bring all of the recipes into the kitchen in one compact collection. Spanning over 2,300 pages, Modernist Bread will become an invaluable resource for anyone who has a thirst for knowledge about bread or wants to advance their craft. This book is a call to arms for any baker—whether you are a strict traditionalist, avid modernist, home baker, restaurant chef, or an artisanal baker—to embrace the possibilities of invention and follow your inspiration to make breads in your own way.
The Modernist Cuisine team is an interdisciplinary group in Bellevue, Washington, founded by Nathan Myhrvold. The team comprises scientists, research and development chefs, a full editorial and photography department, and business and marketing staff—all dedicated to advancing the science of the culinary arts through creativity and experimentation.

No comments:

Post a Comment