Celebrate the diversity of the Jewish Table beyond Cicken, Brisket and even traditional Chicken Soup.
.Long before shakshuka, the saucy egg dish so popular in Israel, hit tables in Canada, and pomegranate molasses and za’atar became pantry staples for many, Evelyn Rose and Joyce Goldstein were transforming the world of Jewish cuisine.
One of Evelyn’s guiding principles was that food should have ta’am – a quality that makes it taste exceptional. The British doyenne of Jewish cuisine passed away in 2003, and her daughter Judi is continuing her legacy. Judi cooked with her mother for 30 years, and they wrote two cookbooks together: The First-Time Cookbook (1982), and Mother and Daughter Jewish Cooking (2000).
Interlink Books100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose.
“Ta’am is the Yiddish and Hebrew word for taste. You can tell an Evelyn Rose recipe – it just sort of sings and the flavours are vibrant,” Judi says in an interview. “Her reputation was founded not just on dishes being tasty. But for taking recipes that aren’t that difficult or complicated, making the instructions absolutely fail-safe and foolproof, and then getting an absolutely amazing result.”
Evelyn produced thousands of recipes over her career, and wrote multiple books – including The Complete International Jewish Cookbook (Pavilion, 2011), which has remained in print for the past 40 years. Judi took on the task of narrowing down her mother’s recipe archive and shares the highlights inThe New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
In selecting the 100 best, “it was important for me to catch the wave of where Jewish cooking is at, which is this interesting crossroads of a return to the traditional but also incorporating new ingredients, new technology,” Judi says. With recipes such as Gefilte Fish Provençale and Chatzilim – a.k.a. “Poor Man’s Caviar” (recipes follow) – Syrian Cheese Puffs and Indonesian-Style Corn Fritters, Judi’s selections represent her mother’s philosophy that Jewish food is as diverse as the communities that enjoy it.
“People would ask my mother, ‘What is Jewish cooking? What is Jewish food?’ And she’d say, ‘It’s food that Jews eat,'” Judi says with a laugh. “Jewish food is not just the traditional things we think of – chicken soup and matzo balls, and kugels. But my mother revolutionized what people think of as Jewish food because first of all, she brought in a combination of traditional dishes from different strands of Jewish cooking – Sephardi and Ashkenazi. And she also travelled the world looking for different recipes and foods and ingredients. She was really, really ahead of her time.”
Courtesy of Judi RoseAuthors Judi, left, and her mother Evelyn Rose are pictured.
A continent away, in San Francisco, Goldstein was breaking ground of her own. The chef and author opened Square One restaurant in 1984, serving specialties from France, Greece, Italy, Spain and Turkey, and the regions of North Africa and the Middle East. “We were sort of pioneers in introducing Mediterranean Jewish food to the dining public – here we were, a mainstream restaurant serving food from all over the Mediterranean. So it was a process of education. Now, a lot of this food is familiar and with a lot of the Israeli chefs getting press, people have discovered that there’s more to Jewish food than the Ashkenazi,” she says in an interview.
In The New Mediterranean Jewish Table: Old World Recipes for the Modern Home(University of California Press, 2016), Goldstein takes readers on a journey throughout the region with more than 400 recipes. She had covered Sephardic (Iberian Peninsula) and Maghrebi (North Africa) cookery in-depth in previous books, such as Sephardic Flavors (Chronicle Books, 2000) and Saffron Shores (Chronicle Books, 2002). But in The New Mediterranean Jewish Table, Goldstein also delves into the cuisine of the Mizrahi – Jewish communities of the Middle East. “When you think of classic Ashkenazi (Central and Eastern European) food, it is meat and potatoes, a couple of root vegetables and an apple – there are no herbs, no spices. So when you open this book, it’s like my god, you’re in heaven,” she says with a laugh.
University Of California PressChef and author Joyce Goldstein is pictured with her latest book, The New Mediterranean Jewish Table.
Goldstein was struck by the incredible diversity of vegetable- and grain-based dishes in her exploration of the three Mediterranean Jewish cultures. “Everybody knows that the Mediterranean diet is the healthiest diet but most Jews don’t associate Jewish food with the Mediterranean. They just don’t think that way. Ashkenazi food has had all the press and a longer tradition in this country because most of the Jews that came to America were from Central Europe. They’ve had this monopoly, and so for other people to connect Mediterranean diet – healthy, good, vegetables, varied, spices, herbs – with Jews… it’s a connection that hasn’t been made until very recently.”
With all due respect to Ashkenazi classics like brisket and chopped liver, there is so much more to the collective Jewish table. The spring festival of Passover (Pesach) begins in the evening of Friday, April 22 and ends in the evening of Saturday, April 30 – what better time to celebrate fresh Jewish flavours? “If you go to the farmers’ market today and you buy artichokes, eggplant or peppers, you can decide, ‘I’m going to be in Turkey today, oh no, let’s see what the Iranians are doing,’ and open up this huge repertoire of recipes that are available to you.” Goldstein says. Take fresh artichokes, for example – there are Turkish sweet-and-sour artichokes, Roman-style artichokes stuffed with mint and garlic, and Carciofata di Trieste, a spring vegetable stew (recipe follows), just to name a few options.
“Each culture has signature flavours, whether you’re in Greece with the tomatoes and cinnamon, or Iran with the cardamom and turmeric. And some of them would be the same ingredients but just seasoned in a different way. I find that fascinating, like in early Spain when the eggplant first came there, everybody was cooking it with sugar. And then it evolves into this wonderful Moroccan dish that they use to break the fast at Yom Kippur, which is a sweet, eggplant stew that has honey and spices. So I see this whole recipe making a circle over time. And I want people to say, ‘My god, I didn’t know that this was Jewish and how delicious. And look at all the options that I have – the variety.'”
FAVOURITE DISHES FOR THE PASSOVER SEDER
Interlink BooksMirkatan (Armenian Fruit Compôte) from 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose.
Judi Rose: “One of the challenges is there’s so much preparation for Passover beforehand: cleaning and making cookies, and getting ready to entertain guests. So one of the golden rules for me is that the meal itself is delicious but you can plan and prepare most of it ahead. Then it’s really easy to put together at the last minute.”
—Small Plates: Chatzilim “Poor Man’s Caviar” (recipe follows); Katsis Kishuim (Israeli zucchini pâté).
—Vegetables: Imam Bayeldi (Turkish baked eggplant); Oven-Crisp Potatoes.
—Fish: Gefilte Fish Provençale (recipe follows); Salmon under a Pecan Crust.
—Meat and Poultry: Greek-Jewish Lamb Fricassée; Biblical Chicken (chicken breasts with oranges, honey and almonds; use potato starch in place of flour and cornstarch).
—Desserts: Mirkatan (Armenian Fruit Compôte, recipe follows); Cinnamon Balls.
(All recipes can be found in 100 Best Jewish Recipes.)
—Vegetables: Imam Bayeldi (Turkish baked eggplant); Oven-Crisp Potatoes.
—Fish: Gefilte Fish Provençale (recipe follows); Salmon under a Pecan Crust.
—Meat and Poultry: Greek-Jewish Lamb Fricassée; Biblical Chicken (chicken breasts with oranges, honey and almonds; use potato starch in place of flour and cornstarch).
—Desserts: Mirkatan (Armenian Fruit Compôte, recipe follows); Cinnamon Balls.
(All recipes can be found in 100 Best Jewish Recipes.)
Joyce Goldstein: “I cook for family Christmas, Thanksgiving… those I can do in a day, day and a half. The Seder is two or three days of cooking; it’s a lot of preparation. And if you want to do multiple courses, you have to do a game plan the week before. Figure out what you’re going to do on what day so that when the Seder comes, other than having the Seder plate ready and the table looking beautiful, you can relax.”
—Soups: Asparagus Soup with Saffron from the Veneto; Italian Passover Soup with Chicken Dumplings and Eggs.
—Vegetables: Spring Vegetable Stew (Carciofata di Trieste, recipe follows); Braised Artichokes, Favas, and Lettuce.
—Fish: Fish with Sephardic Tomato and Rhubarb Sauce; Fish with a Sauce of Artichokes.
—Meat and Poultry: Turkish Lamb with Green Garlic (recipe follows); Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon, and Ginger.
—Desserts: Sephardic Orange and Almond Cake (recipe follows); Hazelnut Sponge Cake.
(All recipes can be found in The New Mediterranean Jewish Table.)
—Vegetables: Spring Vegetable Stew (Carciofata di Trieste, recipe follows); Braised Artichokes, Favas, and Lettuce.
—Fish: Fish with Sephardic Tomato and Rhubarb Sauce; Fish with a Sauce of Artichokes.
—Meat and Poultry: Turkish Lamb with Green Garlic (recipe follows); Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon, and Ginger.
—Desserts: Sephardic Orange and Almond Cake (recipe follows); Hazelnut Sponge Cake.
(All recipes can be found in The New Mediterranean Jewish Table.)
CHATZILIM — “POOR MAN’S CAVIAR”
Interlink BooksDuring Passover, serve chatzilim with matzo; otherwise serve the Eastern Mediterranean appetizer with challah or warm pita bread.
From 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose. Published by Interlink Books, 2015.
A delicious Eastern Mediterranean appetizer, particularly popular in Israel, chatzilim is served like a pâté with pita or toast and butter, or as a stuffing for tomatoes. It is also known as potljelly by Romanian Jews.
A delicious Eastern Mediterranean appetizer, particularly popular in Israel, chatzilim is served like a pâté with pita or toast and butter, or as a stuffing for tomatoes. It is also known as potljelly by Romanian Jews.
1 lb (450 g) eggplants
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp (15 ml) finely chopped onion
1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped parsley
1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped green pepper (optional)
1 tsp (5 ml) sea salt, or more to taste
10 grinds of black pepper, or more to taste
1 tbsp (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste
black olives, and matzo during Passover (challah or warm pita bread otherwise), to serve
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp (15 ml) finely chopped onion
1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped parsley
1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped green pepper (optional)
1 tsp (5 ml) sea salt, or more to taste
10 grinds of black pepper, or more to taste
1 tbsp (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste
black olives, and matzo during Passover (challah or warm pita bread otherwise), to serve
1. Cut off the prickly stalk-ends of the eggplants, then prick all over with a fork—this prevents them bursting and burning the cook! Traditionally the eggplants are grilled over charcoal, giving the dish its characteristic smoky flavour. However, unless you have a charcoal grill on hand it’s much more convenient to preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C) and bake them 8-30 minutes until they have begun to collapse and a skewer meets no resistance when the centre is pierced.
2. If more convenient, lay them on a paper towel and cook in the microwave until tender. Leave to stand for 1 minute, then pierce with a skewer to test as before. If you want a smoky flavour, char each softened eggplant by holding it briefly over the open flame of a gas stove (use barbecue tongs or a long-handled fork). Allow to cool for a few minutes, then cut in half and scoop out the flesh from the skin.
3. Chop the remaining ingredients into the eggplant flesh using a large cook’s knife, mezzaluna, or hackmesser (an old-fashioned wooden-handled chopper), adding the olive oil and lemon juice last. Taste and add more lemon juice, salt, and pepper, if necessary.
4. Put into a shallow pottery dish. Garnish with black olives. During Passover, serve with matzo; otherwise serve with challah or warm pita bread.
serves 4-6 as an appetizer, 8-10 as a dip
2. If more convenient, lay them on a paper towel and cook in the microwave until tender. Leave to stand for 1 minute, then pierce with a skewer to test as before. If you want a smoky flavour, char each softened eggplant by holding it briefly over the open flame of a gas stove (use barbecue tongs or a long-handled fork). Allow to cool for a few minutes, then cut in half and scoop out the flesh from the skin.
3. Chop the remaining ingredients into the eggplant flesh using a large cook’s knife, mezzaluna, or hackmesser (an old-fashioned wooden-handled chopper), adding the olive oil and lemon juice last. Taste and add more lemon juice, salt, and pepper, if necessary.
4. Put into a shallow pottery dish. Garnish with black olives. During Passover, serve with matzo; otherwise serve with challah or warm pita bread.
serves 4-6 as an appetizer, 8-10 as a dip
Note: Keeps for two weeks in the fridge; do not freeze.
SPRING VEGETABLE STEW (CARCIOFATA DI TRIESTE)
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
Please don’t let the long list of ingredients scare you away from this wonderful spring vegetable stew from Trieste. It is the ideal dish to serve at Passover, as it includes all of the vegetables of the holiday season. In the old days, the vegetables were cooked together in one pot because flavour was more important than texture and colour. But today, they are more appealing if they are cooked separately until almost tender and still colourful and then combined and cooked through at serving time.
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
Please don’t let the long list of ingredients scare you away from this wonderful spring vegetable stew from Trieste. It is the ideal dish to serve at Passover, as it includes all of the vegetables of the holiday season. In the old days, the vegetables were cooked together in one pot because flavour was more important than texture and colour. But today, they are more appealing if they are cooked separately until almost tender and still colourful and then combined and cooked through at serving time.
juice of 1 lemon
3 medium artichokes, or 6 small artichokes (about 225 g/8 oz after trimming)
3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) minced garlic, or more to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup (250 ml) shelled English peas, blanched for 1 minute
225 g (8 oz) baby carrots, peeled and parboiled for 5 to 7 minutes
225 g (8 oz) mushrooms, sliced and sautéed in olive oil for 5 minutes
225 g (8 oz) asparagus tips, blanched for 2 minutes
225 g (8 oz) little new potatoes, parboiled for 7 to 10 minutes, depending on size, and drained
225 g (8 oz) tiny pearl onions, parboiled for 4 to 5 minutes, drained, and peeled
2 cups (500 ml) vegetable broth, or as needed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch of sugar (optional)
chopped fresh mint, flat-leaf parsley, or basil for garnish (optional)
3 medium artichokes, or 6 small artichokes (about 225 g/8 oz after trimming)
3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) minced garlic, or more to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup (250 ml) shelled English peas, blanched for 1 minute
225 g (8 oz) baby carrots, peeled and parboiled for 5 to 7 minutes
225 g (8 oz) mushrooms, sliced and sautéed in olive oil for 5 minutes
225 g (8 oz) asparagus tips, blanched for 2 minutes
225 g (8 oz) little new potatoes, parboiled for 7 to 10 minutes, depending on size, and drained
225 g (8 oz) tiny pearl onions, parboiled for 4 to 5 minutes, drained, and peeled
2 cups (500 ml) vegetable broth, or as needed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch of sugar (optional)
chopped fresh mint, flat-leaf parsley, or basil for garnish (optional)
1. Fill a medium saucepan with lightly salted water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, have ready a bowl of water to which you have added the lemon juice. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim off the stem flush with the bottom, then remove all of the leaves until you reach the heart. Pare away the dark green areas from the base. Cut the artichoke heart in half and scoop out and discard the choke from each half with a small pointed spoon or a paring knife. Cut each half in half again and slip the pieces into the lemon water. When all of the artichokes are trimmed, drain and add to the boiling water. Parboil for 5 minutes and drain.
2. Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and stir for a minute or two. Add the artichokes, peas, carrots, mushrooms, asparagus, potatoes, pearl onions, and just enough broth to moisten. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until all of the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and add the sugar, if needed for flavour balance. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the mint. Serve hot.
serves 6
2. Warm the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and stir for a minute or two. Add the artichokes, peas, carrots, mushrooms, asparagus, potatoes, pearl onions, and just enough broth to moisten. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until all of the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and add the sugar, if needed for flavour balance. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the mint. Serve hot.
serves 6
VARIATION
Spring Vegetable Stew with Egg and Lemon (Carciofata con Bagna Brusca):When the vegetables are tender, whisk together 1 egg and ¼ cup fresh lemon juice until very frothy. Gradually whisk about ⅓ cup of the hot vegetable cooking liquid into the egg mixture to temper it. Pour the egg mixture into the vegetables, stir well, and remove from the heat. (Once you have added the egg and lemon, you cannot reheat the dish.) Garnish with the mint and serve at once.
Spring Vegetable Stew with Egg and Lemon (Carciofata con Bagna Brusca):When the vegetables are tender, whisk together 1 egg and ¼ cup fresh lemon juice until very frothy. Gradually whisk about ⅓ cup of the hot vegetable cooking liquid into the egg mixture to temper it. Pour the egg mixture into the vegetables, stir well, and remove from the heat. (Once you have added the egg and lemon, you cannot reheat the dish.) Garnish with the mint and serve at once.
GEFILTE FISH PROVENÇALE
Photography: Marc Gerstein. Food: Judi RoseGefilte Fish Provençale from 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose.
From 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose. Published by Interlink Books, 2015.
Gefilte fish was originally a dish of freshwater fish stuffed with a forcemeat made from chopped or ground fish. Today, patties or balls of sea fish are cooked in stock rather than as a stuffing. The patties in this recipe are poached in a delicious tomato and pepper sauce and can be served either warm or chilled.
Gefilte fish was originally a dish of freshwater fish stuffed with a forcemeat made from chopped or ground fish. Today, patties or balls of sea fish are cooked in stock rather than as a stuffing. The patties in this recipe are poached in a delicious tomato and pepper sauce and can be served either warm or chilled.
to make 12 patties:
1 lb (450 g) hake fillet, skinned
1 lb (450 g) haddock fillet, skinned
2 tsp (10 ml) salt, plus extra to salt the fish
1 onion, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) chunks
2 eggs
1 pinch of white pepper
2 tsp (10 ml) sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) oil
½ cup (50 g/2 oz) medium matzo meal, plus more, if needed
1 lb (450 g) hake fillet, skinned
1 lb (450 g) haddock fillet, skinned
2 tsp (10 ml) salt, plus extra to salt the fish
1 onion, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) chunks
2 eggs
1 pinch of white pepper
2 tsp (10 ml) sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) oil
½ cup (50 g/2 oz) medium matzo meal, plus more, if needed
for the sauce:
1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
425 g (15 oz) can or jar of tomato puree
2 tbsp (30 ml) ketchup
1 orange or yellow pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1 tsp (5 ml) brown sugar
10 grinds of black pepper
1 bay leaf
½ tsp (2.5 ml) dried herbes de Provence
1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
425 g (15 oz) can or jar of tomato puree
2 tbsp (30 ml) ketchup
1 orange or yellow pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 tsp (5 ml) salt
1 tsp (5 ml) brown sugar
10 grinds of black pepper
1 bay leaf
½ tsp (2.5 ml) dried herbes de Provence
1. Wash and salt the fish and leave to drain. Put the onion into a food processor, together with the eggs, salt, pepper, sugar, and oil, then process to a smooth purée. Pour this purée into a large bowl and stir in the matzo meal, then set aside to swell.
2. Working in batches, process the fish in the food processor for 5 seconds until finely chopped, then add it to the egg and onion purée and blend in using a large fork. Once all the fish has been processed, mix thoroughly. The mixture should be firm enough to shape into a soft patty. If it feels too “cloggy,” stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons of water. If it feels very soft, stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons of the matzo meal. Set aside for half an hour, or overnight in the fridge, if preferred.
3. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). With wet hands, form the mixture into oval patties, each about 7 cm long (2½ inch), 4 cm (1½ inch) wide, and 2 cm (¾ inch) thick. Cover and set aside.
4. To make the sauce, heat the oil and sauté the onion until soft and transparent, then add all the remaining ingredients and bubble until reduced to a thick coating consistency.
5. Arrange the fish patties in a shallow ovenproof dish, pour on the sauce, and loosely cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour, basting the patties once or twice with the sauce.
allow 1-2 patties per serving
2. Working in batches, process the fish in the food processor for 5 seconds until finely chopped, then add it to the egg and onion purée and blend in using a large fork. Once all the fish has been processed, mix thoroughly. The mixture should be firm enough to shape into a soft patty. If it feels too “cloggy,” stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons of water. If it feels very soft, stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons of the matzo meal. Set aside for half an hour, or overnight in the fridge, if preferred.
3. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). With wet hands, form the mixture into oval patties, each about 7 cm long (2½ inch), 4 cm (1½ inch) wide, and 2 cm (¾ inch) thick. Cover and set aside.
4. To make the sauce, heat the oil and sauté the onion until soft and transparent, then add all the remaining ingredients and bubble until reduced to a thick coating consistency.
5. Arrange the fish patties in a shallow ovenproof dish, pour on the sauce, and loosely cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour, basting the patties once or twice with the sauce.
allow 1-2 patties per serving
Note: Keeps for four days in the fridge.
TURKISH LAMB WITH GREEN GARLIC (KODRERO CON AJO FRESCO)
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
Spring is when green garlic appears at the market. These fragrant green shoots with tiny young bulbs resemble large green onions or baby leeks, and combined with green onions, they make for a delicate and aromatic stew. If you cannot find green garlic at your market, you can use garlic cloves instead. With the slow cooking, the cloves will become mild and creamy. I recommend braising this dish in the oven for even cooking and to eliminate worries about scorching, but if oven space is tight, the stove top will do. This stew was a great favourite at Passover at my restaurant, Square One, and it is usually the centrepiece of my family Seder. Serve with rice or roast potatoes.
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
Spring is when green garlic appears at the market. These fragrant green shoots with tiny young bulbs resemble large green onions or baby leeks, and combined with green onions, they make for a delicate and aromatic stew. If you cannot find green garlic at your market, you can use garlic cloves instead. With the slow cooking, the cloves will become mild and creamy. I recommend braising this dish in the oven for even cooking and to eliminate worries about scorching, but if oven space is tight, the stove top will do. This stew was a great favourite at Passover at my restaurant, Square One, and it is usually the centrepiece of my family Seder. Serve with rice or roast potatoes.
olive oil for browning and sautéing
3 to 4 lbs (1.5 to 2 kg) boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 4 to 5-cm (1 1/2- to 2-inch) pieces
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (250 ml) meat broth or water, or as needed
1/4 cup (60 ml) tomato paste
3 tbsp (45 ml) red wine vinegar
2 tsp (10 ml) Maras or Aleppo pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 lb (450 g) green garlic stalks, or 2 small heads garlic
2 lb (1 kg) green onions (about 6 large bunches)
2 lb (1 kg) fresh fava beans, shelled, blanched, and peeled (optional)
squeeze of fresh lemon juice (optional)
chopped fresh mint or flat-leaf parsley for garnish
3 to 4 lbs (1.5 to 2 kg) boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 4 to 5-cm (1 1/2- to 2-inch) pieces
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (250 ml) meat broth or water, or as needed
1/4 cup (60 ml) tomato paste
3 tbsp (45 ml) red wine vinegar
2 tsp (10 ml) Maras or Aleppo pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 lb (450 g) green garlic stalks, or 2 small heads garlic
2 lb (1 kg) green onions (about 6 large bunches)
2 lb (1 kg) fresh fava beans, shelled, blanched, and peeled (optional)
squeeze of fresh lemon juice (optional)
chopped fresh mint or flat-leaf parsley for garnish
1. If oven braising, preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Film a large, heavy sauté pan with oil and warm over high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In batches, add the lamb to the pan and brown well on all sides. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a stew pot.
3. Pour off the excess fat from the sauté pan, add a little of the broth, and deglaze the pan over high heat, stirring to dislodge any brown bits from the pan bottom. Add the pan juices to the stew pot. Combine the tomato paste and vinegar with the remaining broth, stir well, and add to the lamb. The liquid should just cover the lamb; add more if needed. Add the Maras pepper and a sprinkle of salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer on the stove top until the lamb is almost tender, about 1 hour. Alternatively, bring to a simmer, cover, and place in the oven for 50 to 60 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the green garlic (or garlic) and the green onions. Cut off the root end of the green garlic stalks and slice the stalks into 5-cm (2-inch) lengths, using all of the green. (Or, separate the cloves of the garlic heads and peel the cloves.) Cut off the roots of the green onions, then cut the green onions, including the green tops, into 5-cm (2-inch) lengths. Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, add the green garlic (or garlic cloves) and green onions, blanch for 2 minutes, drain well, and pat dry.
5. Warm a few tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the green garlic and green onions and sauté them in batches until they take on a bit of colour, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and reserve.
6. After the lamb has been cooking for 1 hour, add the green garlic (or blanched garlic cloves) and green onions, re-cover, and continue to simmer until the lamb is tender, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Add the favas during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the lemon juice to brighten the flavours, then spoon into a deep platter, garnish with mint, and serve.
serves 6 to 8
2. Film a large, heavy sauté pan with oil and warm over high heat. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In batches, add the lamb to the pan and brown well on all sides. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a stew pot.
3. Pour off the excess fat from the sauté pan, add a little of the broth, and deglaze the pan over high heat, stirring to dislodge any brown bits from the pan bottom. Add the pan juices to the stew pot. Combine the tomato paste and vinegar with the remaining broth, stir well, and add to the lamb. The liquid should just cover the lamb; add more if needed. Add the Maras pepper and a sprinkle of salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to low, cover, and simmer on the stove top until the lamb is almost tender, about 1 hour. Alternatively, bring to a simmer, cover, and place in the oven for 50 to 60 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the green garlic (or garlic) and the green onions. Cut off the root end of the green garlic stalks and slice the stalks into 5-cm (2-inch) lengths, using all of the green. (Or, separate the cloves of the garlic heads and peel the cloves.) Cut off the roots of the green onions, then cut the green onions, including the green tops, into 5-cm (2-inch) lengths. Bring a saucepan filled with salted water to a boil, add the green garlic (or garlic cloves) and green onions, blanch for 2 minutes, drain well, and pat dry.
5. Warm a few tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the green garlic and green onions and sauté them in batches until they take on a bit of colour, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and reserve.
6. After the lamb has been cooking for 1 hour, add the green garlic (or blanched garlic cloves) and green onions, re-cover, and continue to simmer until the lamb is tender, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Add the favas during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the lemon juice to brighten the flavours, then spoon into a deep platter, garnish with mint, and serve.
serves 6 to 8
MIRKATAN (ARMENIAN FRUIT COMPÔTE)
Interlink BooksMirkatan (Armenian Fruit Compôte) from 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose.
From 100 Best Jewish Recipes: Traditional and Contemporary Kosher Cuisine from around the World by Evelyn Rose, with Judi Rose. Published by Interlink Books, 2015.
In this ancient Armenian recipe, plump and juicy dried fruits mixed with nuts and sections of orange are macerated in a delicately spiced wine syrup. The compôte can be served either warm or cold, plain or accompanied in the traditional manner by rosewater-scented whipped cream, or, as I prefer it, with Greek yogurt lightly sweetened with Hymettus honey.
In this ancient Armenian recipe, plump and juicy dried fruits mixed with nuts and sections of orange are macerated in a delicately spiced wine syrup. The compôte can be served either warm or cold, plain or accompanied in the traditional manner by rosewater-scented whipped cream, or, as I prefer it, with Greek yogurt lightly sweetened with Hymettus honey.
1 cup (175 g/6 oz) pitted prunes
1 cup (175 g/6 oz) dried apricots
1 cup (175 g/6 oz) dried peaches or pears
enough freshly brewed tea to cover the dried fruit
¼ cup (50 g/2 oz) walnut halves
scant ½ cup (100 ml) fruity red wine
3 strips of orange rind
1 cinnamon stick
¼ cup (50 g/2 oz) superfine sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp (15 ml) orange blossom water
2 navel oranges, peeled and sectioned
1 cup (175 g/6 oz) dried apricots
1 cup (175 g/6 oz) dried peaches or pears
enough freshly brewed tea to cover the dried fruit
¼ cup (50 g/2 oz) walnut halves
scant ½ cup (100 ml) fruity red wine
3 strips of orange rind
1 cinnamon stick
¼ cup (50 g/2 oz) superfine sugar
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp (15 ml) orange blossom water
2 navel oranges, peeled and sectioned
to serve (optional):
whipped cream with a few drops of rosewater mixed in, or Greek yogurt drizzled with honey
whipped cream with a few drops of rosewater mixed in, or Greek yogurt drizzled with honey
1. The day before, put the dried fruits in a bowl and pour the strained tea over it. Cover and leave overnight.
2. The next day, strain the fruit into a bowl, reserving the liquid, and insert the walnut halves into the prunes. If necessary, add enough water to the reserved tea to make a scant 1 cup (200 ml). Pour this into a wide pan with the wine, orange rind, cinnamon stick, and sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 3 minutes.
3. Add the dried fruit, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes until the fruit is tender and the syrup has thickened. Stir in the lemon juice, orange blossom water, and orange sections. Serve hot or cold, either plain, or with your choice of topping.
serves 6
2. The next day, strain the fruit into a bowl, reserving the liquid, and insert the walnut halves into the prunes. If necessary, add enough water to the reserved tea to make a scant 1 cup (200 ml). Pour this into a wide pan with the wine, orange rind, cinnamon stick, and sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 3 minutes.
3. Add the dried fruit, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes until the fruit is tender and the syrup has thickened. Stir in the lemon juice, orange blossom water, and orange sections. Serve hot or cold, either plain, or with your choice of topping.
serves 6
Note: Keeps for four days in the fridge; do not freeze.
SEPHARDIC ORANGE AND ALMOND CAKE (GÂTEAU D’ORANGE)
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
The theme of orange and almonds is pervasive in Sephardic desserts. This recipe is a variation on a classic Judeo-Spanish cake that Claudia Roden recorded in her Book of Jewish Food. Because of the ground cooked fruit, the cake is very moist and dense. The good news is that the cake keeps well at room temperature for a few days and tastes best on the second and third days, which makes it ideal for entertaining, as you can make it in advance.
I tried making this recipe with many different citrus fruits and have discovered that it can also be made with 5 Meyer lemons or with 5 or 6 mandarin oranges. Meyer lemons will become completely soft in about 30 minutes. If you want to use a different citrus fruit, make sure you do not exceed 2¼ cups citrus purée or the cake will be soggy. If you cannot find almond flour, substitute 2 cups blanched almonds ground in a food processor with ¼ cup of the sugar. You can also make this cake with ground pistachio nuts in place of the almonds.
From The New Mediterranean Jewish Table by Joyce Goldstein. Published by University of California Press, 2016.
The theme of orange and almonds is pervasive in Sephardic desserts. This recipe is a variation on a classic Judeo-Spanish cake that Claudia Roden recorded in her Book of Jewish Food. Because of the ground cooked fruit, the cake is very moist and dense. The good news is that the cake keeps well at room temperature for a few days and tastes best on the second and third days, which makes it ideal for entertaining, as you can make it in advance.
I tried making this recipe with many different citrus fruits and have discovered that it can also be made with 5 Meyer lemons or with 5 or 6 mandarin oranges. Meyer lemons will become completely soft in about 30 minutes. If you want to use a different citrus fruit, make sure you do not exceed 2¼ cups citrus purée or the cake will be soggy. If you cannot find almond flour, substitute 2 cups blanched almonds ground in a food processor with ¼ cup of the sugar. You can also make this cake with ground pistachio nuts in place of the almonds.
3 Valencia oranges
9 eggs, separated
1½ cups (375 ml) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 ml) almond flour
2 teaspoons (10 ml) baking powder (optional)
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) almond extract, if needed
½ to 1 cup (125 to 250 ml) Passover cake meal
confectioner’s sugar for dusting
9 eggs, separated
1½ cups (375 ml) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 ml) almond flour
2 teaspoons (10 ml) baking powder (optional)
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) almond extract, if needed
½ to 1 cup (125 to 250 ml) Passover cake meal
confectioner’s sugar for dusting
1. Scrub the oranges, then place in a saucepan, add water to cover, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to medium and simmer, adding more water as needed to keep the fruits submerged, until soft, 1 to 1½ hours. You may have to weight the oranges down with a heatproof plate or pan, as they have a tendency to float.
2. Drain the oranges and transfer to a bowl. When they are cool enough to handle, cut them open and pick out and discard any seeds. Transfer the oranges to a food processor and pulse until puréed. You should have 2 to 2¼ cups purée. (This step can be done a day or two in advance. Cover and refrigerate until needed.)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter or oil a 25-cm (10-inch) springform pan, then coat with Passover cake meal and tap out the excess.
3. In a bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks and 1 cup of the granulated sugar on medium-high speed until thick and pale. Stir in the orange purée, almond flour, and baking powder. If the almond flour is not very fragrant, stir in the almond extract. Fold in ½ cup of the Passover cake meal. If the mixture still seems very wet, fold in up to ½ cup more cake meal.
4. In a second bowl, using clean beaters, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. On medium-high speed, gradually add the remaining ½ cup granulated sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Stir one-third of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites just until no white streaks remain.
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until golden brown and springy and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack. Remove the pan sides and slide the cake onto a serving plate. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve.
serves 12
2. Drain the oranges and transfer to a bowl. When they are cool enough to handle, cut them open and pick out and discard any seeds. Transfer the oranges to a food processor and pulse until puréed. You should have 2 to 2¼ cups purée. (This step can be done a day or two in advance. Cover and refrigerate until needed.)
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter or oil a 25-cm (10-inch) springform pan, then coat with Passover cake meal and tap out the excess.
3. In a bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks and 1 cup of the granulated sugar on medium-high speed until thick and pale. Stir in the orange purée, almond flour, and baking powder. If the almond flour is not very fragrant, stir in the almond extract. Fold in ½ cup of the Passover cake meal. If the mixture still seems very wet, fold in up to ½ cup more cake meal.
4. In a second bowl, using clean beaters, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. On medium-high speed, gradually add the remaining ½ cup granulated sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Stir one-third of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites just until no white streaks remain.
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until golden brown and springy and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack. Remove the pan sides and slide the cake onto a serving plate. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve.
serves 12
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