Pépin is a familiar face from decades of television shows and cookbooks (Jacques Pépin Heart & Soul in the Kitchen), and in 1996 he introduced his daughter Claudine (Kids Cook French) to audiences. Now he brings his granddaughter, Shorey, into the family business with this endearing cookbook that is accompanied by links to 10-minute videos hosted by Sur la Table. Sections on proper table manners and napkin folding impart an old-fashioned feel, and while Pépin admonishes parents not to coddle children but to serve them adult food, the book overflows with typically kid-friendly American dishes, such as English-muffin pizzas, curly hot dogs with relish, and raspberry Jell-O with strawberry sauce. More challenging projects include a loaf of bread hollowed out and stuffed with fish and shellfish (then baked until crusty), and chocolate cups made by dipping inflated balloons into melted chocolate. Recipes that showcase specific techniques—such as a combination of sausages, potatoes, onions, and mushrooms cooked en papillote—are useful. As always, Pépin is a gently encouraging guide, and he makes an able spokesperson for family dinner, but no new ground is broken, and pull quotes from Shorey about how much she adores her “Papi” and loves cooking give little hint of her personality
Jacques Pépin is one of the nation’s most famous cooking teachers, renowned for his knife skills. Ever since she was very young, his granddaughter, Shorey, has loved “helping” him in the kitchen. Now that she is twelve, Jacques gives his charismatic pupil a short course on preparing “food that is plain, but elegant, and more than anything, fun.” In the process, he proves himself as inspiring to her as he is to the country’s greatest chefs.
Curly hot dogs, spinach with croutons, sushi salmon cakes, skillet bread and homemade butter, raspberry cake: These recipes will become irresistible new classics for kids. Along the way, Jacques imparts lessons in kitchen etiquette, from how to set a table to how to fold a napkin properly—even how to load a dishwasher. And perhaps the most important lesson of all: that the best meals are the ones shared at home with family.
Curly Dogs with Pickle Relish from A Grandfather's Lessons
Serves 2
This dish goes back to my days of working at the Howard Johnson Commissary in Queens Village. The commissary turned out tons of hot dogs, among many other products, and I had fun pre- paring them in unconventional ways: sliced in stew with beans or in soups, in salads with a mustard sauce, or with cabbage. I do not remember exactly how we invented the 'curly dog.' It involved cutting the hot dogs in such a way that they curled as they cooked. Each dog is cut halfway through lengthwise and then with about 12 crosswise slits, so when it cooks in a skillet, it curls into a 'dented' wheel. I knew Shorey would enjoy making curly dogs with me.
The relish I serve with the dogs is a bit tart and uses dill pickles because Shorey loves it that way. I like pork and beef hot dogs, but any hot dogs will do. Only one hamburger bun is used for both the hot dogs, half a bun for each curly dog to sit on, and the centers are filled with the relish.
Directions
With a sharp paring knife, cut the hot dogs lengthwise about halfway through the meat. Then make crosswise cuts in each one, spacing them about inch apart and cutting about halfway through the meat; you should have about 12 cuts on each hot dog.
Heat the oil in a sturdy skillet. Add the hot dogs and cook over medium heat for about 3 minutes, shaking the pan so the hot dogs roll over and brown on all sides. They will start curling up into wheels.
Meanwhile, toast the bun until it is crusty.
Place a curly dog on each bun half, curling it into a wheel. Spoon the relish into the centers and serve.
Pickle Relish
Makes about 1 cup; enough for 4 hot dogs.
Combine all the relish ingredients in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
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